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Questions and Answers about the Stator ![]() Front view of stator after rotor removal ![]() |
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How do you remove the rotor? There
is one correct way, you add the rotor puller tool to your tool
collection. It is inexpensive and removes the rotor quickly and
easily. Use a gear puller? Be my guest! We sell rotors also.
We have them in stock. Would you like to know how much they cost?
Big Bucks! The rotor puller is way cheap! Now then, how about those pesky 3mm allen screws that hold the stator plate to the engine case? Before you strip them, get a small punch, put in center of allen bolt and give it three or four good raps with a hammer. Then take your 3mm allen wrench and try to break the screw loose. It takes way more torque to break this little screw loose than you would think. If it doesn't break loose, rap it again. This is way easier than drilling out the buggered up screw, or using an easy out, our buying a new left case cause it's buggered up. |
| The back view of the stator shows you the proper routing |

| Kill Switch: | on=infinite resisitance, off=0 resisitance |
| Spark Plug Cap: | 4k-6k ohms |
| Ignition Coil: | Primary (organge to coil base)=0.7-1.1 ohms |
| Ignition Coil: | Secondary (Plug wire, no cap on, to coil base)=5.7k-8.5k ohms |
| Pulsar Coil: | White/Red to Black=16-24 ohms |
| Source Coil: | Black/Red to Black= 264-396 ohms |
| Lighting/Charge Coil | Yellow/Red to Black= 0.16-0.24Ohms White to Black 0.24-0.36 Ohms |
| Wiring: | Check all connections, then re-check! |
| Spark Plug | Replace |
| CDI | No Static Check Possible |
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Caution! Be very careful when checking
for spark that there is no gasoline in the area, |

